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BrahmDevPandey

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Posts posted by BrahmDevPandey

  1. @CraigD

    On 1/30/2007 at 12:11 AM, CraigD said:

    Waves do behave this way – if you observe waves crests traveling from deep to shallow water, such as over a sand bar, or in one of the special “water table” apparatuses found in many science classrooms, you’ll see them change direction as you describe – and this is part of the answer. However, this explanation alone can’t fully explain why waves near the shore usually move toward the shore.

     

    Here’s a hint. Begin with the assumption that air blown over the surface of a smooth body of water will cause waves that travel in the direction of the blown air (you can experimentally test this with a fan and a basin of water). Note that, once started, waves continue after the wind stops, or even if it blow briefly in the opposite direction. Now, consider what happens when a wind blows over a small area of the surface of the water, while another wind blows at the same speed in the opposite direction over a larger area. Finally, assuming ocean winds blow in random, changing directions. What is the likelihood that such conditions will produce waves moving away from the shore, vs. the likelihood that they’ll cause waves moving toward it? (especially accounting for waves traveling more parallel to than toward the shore changing direction due to refraction)

    Sir, please give the full explanation now. I searched for the right explanation here and there, but couldn't find a satisfactory answer. Please explain the full reason as to why do the waves move towards the shore???

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