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Connecting Capacitor In Parallel Or A Secondary Battery?


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Dear Friends

 

Read my post carefully. I have a motor bike having 8.3A battery bike had 35Watt headlight which was pretty bad. I decided to connect car beam 100w/130w as my battery total power is 12 x 8.3 = 99.6 Watt so you know it can only provide 90% power to 100w point only. Now tell me should I connect another battery of same company in parallel for maximum brilliance of my head light or someone told me about connecting capacitor in parallel with my battery if capacitor is the answer then which capacitor will suits best or if battery is the answer?? you people know what I meant tell me now help needed.

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Dear Friends
 
Read my post carefully. I have a motor bike having 8.3A battery bike had 35Watt headlight which was pretty bad. I decided to connect car beam 100w/130w as my battery total power is 12 x 8.3 = 99.6 Watt so you know it can only provide 90% power to 100w point only. Now tell me should I connect another battery of same company in parallel for maximum brilliance of my head light or someone told me about connecting capacitor in parallel with my battery if capacitor is the answer then which capacitor will suits best or if battery is the answer?? you people know what I meant tell me now help needed.

 

 

Wouldn’t it be a lot better to convert to an led headlight?

 

The led can produce around 160 lm/w versus 35 lm/w for a typical bulb type.

 

100/130 w bulb can give you around 3000 lm at the cost of draining all of your available power and probably melting something down. A 25 w led can get you 4000 lm while drawing only 2.5 amps.

 

I report, you decide

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First off: If you didn't run parallel wiring for the new headlamp (or replace it entirely with heavier gauge) you are probably now in overdraw for the wires leading up to the headlamp. The wires will probably get VERY warm if you feel them after the lamp is on for 5-10 minutes. This is dangerous for several reasons, but mainly in that it will probably melt the insulation and eventually lead to a groundfault on the frame. Fix that if you are determined to have the higher wattage component over having a few lower watt higher lumen lights (like the LED systems others have mentioned). It' most likely the harness wiring that's the limiting factor on the light's brightness, as "just barely good enough" wire thickness is a standard fare on vehicles. It saves them money on every unit produced after all.

I'm unable to find the typical wattage of the stator on a Suuki GS, check your manual to see if it has that information. if not a multimeter  can be used to check it's current output. (pun intended) be sure you're producing enough to drive what you're intending to use. You should also fully diagnose the electrical system on the bike. It's very common for excessive ripple and "half dead" charging systems to go unnoticed for long periods of time unless you're a daily rider and a gearhead.

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